Gardening in April

Gardening in April is a busy time. This is the time to prune your fruit trees if you have not gotten that done during the winter. It is also the time to start your fruit tree spraying schedule using your homemade spray.

 Compost should be added to you garden before planting and all trellis and support systems should be put in place before the seeds are planted.

In Indiana the weather determines a big part of how the garden grows because we can get sunshine, hail, thunder, rain, and snow all in the same day. This year it has been rather cool so far. But plan ahead for April and May’s growth as the radishes, green onions, lettuce, and spinach are harvest you will need to have plants or seeds ready to fill the voids. You can plant beans, carrots, beets, squash and cucumbers in these empty spaces.

You will need to transplants the seedling that are under lights and start eggplants, pepper, and tomatoes under the lights early this month. These need to be transplanted to cell packs as soon as they come up and then muskmelon,  pumpkins, squash and watermelon need to be sowed in peat pots.  Use peat pots because these crops do not transplant well and you must not disturb them too much when you plant them out. I usually buy my peppers and tomato plants from the store instead of raising them from seeds.

Near the end of this month you can direct sow radishes, carrots, Swiss chard, beets, lettuce. mustard. rutabagas. turnips, and sweet corn.. Also plant out onion set and seed potatoes. I usually take a chance and sow a few of these early in March – sometimes it works and sometimes not so well.

The cold frame should be filling up with the plants that you started under the lights: broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, endive, escarole, spinach, and parsley. They need the cold frame to harden off before being transplanting into the garden.

The asparagus and rhubarb should be emerging; harvest from mature patches while they are young and tender. Remove any flower stalks from your rhubarb plants.

It is important not to over water you seedlings or transplants.  Prepare the soil for the tomatoes, peppers, squash, and cucumbers and lay some black plastic over the area to help warm the soil and control the weeds.

Pest can be controlled by placing a screen or floating row covers over newly planted crops or seeds. Do not over water as this can cause diseases  and control weeds. Rabbits and deer can also cause problems in the garden and the only way to keep them out is with a fence. It needs to be at least 18 inches high and preferable buried 6 inches into the ground.

Greenhouses and tunnel gardens allow you to sow radishes ans turnips directly in the beds. Seedlings of calabrese, mini cauliflower, celery, chervil, coriander, zucchini, dill, french beans, kohlrabi, lettuce, oriental salads and scallions can be transplanted into the beds,

You can sow more seeds under your lights to be transplanted into the greenhouse later.  Basil (4 seeds per cell). Celery (broadcast in tray), Zucchini (1 seed per 3 inch pot), Cucumber (1 seed in 3 inch peat pot), Coriander, Dill, and Chervil (5 seeds per cell), Climbing and Dwarf French beans ( 5 seeds per 4 inch pot), Kohlrabi (1 seed per cell), Lettuce (1-3 seeds per cell), Melon (1 seeds per 3 inch pot), Sweetcorn (1 seed per 4 inch pot).

You can raise Brussels sprouts, cabbage, calabrese, cauliflower, chard, chervil, coriander, zucchini, dill, endive, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, lettuce, parsley, perpetual spinach, pumpkin, scallions, squash, swede, and turnips under the lights to be transplanted in the outside gardens.

You should be able to harvest from your greenhouse and tunnels in April. The early cabbage, lettuce, radish, scallions, baby turnips, kohlrabi, salad rocket, oriental salads, spinach, chard, strawberries, and baby potatoes should be ready to harvest.

You will need to water more frequently and ventilate the tunnels/greenhouse as much as possible. Thin out celery and celeriac seedling under the lights and pot the eggplants,peppers and tomatoes into 5 inch pots. Overwinter crops need to be pulled up and put into the compost bin.

Watch for aphids, leather jackets, and cutworms. Use a garlic spray on aphids every few days. Remember to harden off all plants under the lights before planting them into the beds.

Last year I moved my main garden from the backyard to the front since the trees were providing too much shade in the backyard to allow the vegetables to grow well. I also made the decision  to enlarge the garden by adding more raised beds.  The smaller garden only had four beds which I have left in place in the backyard.

garden 001I have not decided what I will do with that area since it is fenced in nicely. The beds need more soil/ compost before anything can be planted  Mosquitoes were another major problem in the backyard garden. There were times that no matter now often I sprayed the surrounding area it was impossible to work back there. There are some plants that can be planted in shade but they didn’t seem to grow that well last year. I figure I will work on this garden in my spare time this summer and decide what to plant later.

March2015 054The new sun garden has ten raised gardens, a round strawberry bed and a bed for blackberries.  I have been asked why so many beds and the answer is simple we eat a lot of vegetables.

Last year I just planted as I finished a bed and had no real plan. Things grew nicely but I soon learned that I needed to control the vining plants.

This year I decided to try square foot gardening and planting in succession. I finished the girds last night with the help of my hubby, I had planned on painting the last three grids today but it is raining so that will have to wait. I will work on the trellis next week – so there should be no vines covering up the walkways this year. The initial work and cost has been spread over the last two years but everything should hold up for years.  The grids will help reduce the amount of seeds used each year and also allow for more plants to be planted in a smaller area. Who knew you could plant 16 carrots in a square foot and not a long row? No more hoeing between plants! Yes, even with my raised beds I had been planting in rows with smaller spaces between rows but not nearly as close as this. Remember with square foot gardening you do not have to plant as much seeds as you do with row gardening. Plant only what you need!

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Today’s organization challenge is to set up a home filing system.

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It was a rainy day so I spent most of it visiting with Doug. Chris brought home more dog food for Shoes and another toy for her. She must think it is Christmas with all the new toys and treats she is getting. It is a good thing she has her toys to keep her busy because she is inside and poor thing doesn’t like thunder. During the worst of the thunder she is under my feet and I am trying not to laugh but I can not encourage her acting so scared of a little noise. At least my feet are warm!

I did remember to worm the barn cats and have set up a schedule on the calendar to do so once a month..

Garden Planing Online

I admit I spent way too much time on the computer yesterday during the pouring rain but how could I turn away after I discovered so many online garden planing websites. Some of these sites do everything but actually work the garden. I had to play with them all before choosing the ones I liked best.

For over all planning I found The Gardener’s Supply Company site to be very user-friendly. This site allows you to create different beds and save them with notes. These beds can then be placed on a larger grid to re-create your actual garden. You can save the different beds online, email, and print the bed plans individually. The complete plan can only be saved to site or printed it can’t be emailed.

SFG Planner  isn’t as easy to work with because of the smaller window that contains the graph, but it gives you wonderful information about the crops such as the harvest date from the time you actually plant the seed.  It tells you the days to maturity and the duration of the harvest period. It also allows you to change the number of plants within the square and allows you to search for vegetables without scrolling though all of them each time. It also allows you to enter the plant date and gives you a year timeline to help plan succession planting. It can be printed out but I did not find a save button.

Vegetable Planner Online  was easy to create the beds but there was no final grid area to position the beds as they appear in your garden.

The Old Farmer’s Almanac site was filled with ads and actually wanted money to buy a trail session.

Here is what one of my garden beds looks like using  The Gardener’s Supply Company’s site:

30 Years of Helping Gardeners Grow
Gardening   |   Outdoor Living   |   Indoor Living   |   New & Exclusive   |   Outlet

 

Dear Kitchen Gardener,
plantingchart Thanks for your interest in growing your own herbs and vegetables using our Kitchen Garden Planner. Below is a planting map for the garden you selected or created. Each square represents one square foot, and the easy-to-follow illustration tells you exactly how many plants or seeds to plant for each crop. Underneath the planting map you’ll find several tips for successfully planting each of these crops. For more info, use the Vegetable Encyclopedia and our complete guide to Planting and Care. We hope your Kitchen Garden is fun and bountiful!
Planting Map & Guide for Bed A First bed of the season 2015
Cabbage

Cabbage, (1)
Onions

Onions, (9)
Cabbage

Cabbage, (1)
Onions

Onions, (9)
Spinach

Spinach, (9)
Spinach

Spinach, (9)
Leaf

Leaf lettuce, (16)
Leaf

Leaf lettuce, (16)
Beets

Beet, (9)
Beets

Beet, (9)
Carrots

Carrot, (16)
Carrots

Carrot, (16)
Radishes

Radish, (16)
Broccoli

Broccoli, (1)
Broccoli

Broccoli, (1)
Broccoli

Broccoli, (1)
Broccoli

Broccoli, (1)
Broccoli

Broccoli, (1)
Corn

Corn, (2)
Cucumbers

Cucumber, (2)
Corn

Corn, (2)
Corn

Corn, (2)
Summer

Summer squash, (1)
Corn

Corn, (2)
Cabbage

Cabbage

  • Sow seeds indoors 1/4″ deep eight weeks before last frost or outdoors four weeks before last frost.
  • Transplant seedlings into garden four weeks before last spring frost
  • Spacing: one per sq. ft.
  • Start seeds for fall crop in early summer.
  • Days to harvest: 60 to 105 days, depending on variety. Frost-hardy.
  • Hint: Plants prefer cool weather. Hot temperatures can cause heads to split.
Onions

Onions

  • Start seeds 1/4″ deep indoors 12 weeks before last frost
  • Transplant plants into garden a month before last frost. If planting sets, plant them 1″ deep.
  • Spacing: nine plants per sq. ft., or plant more densely and then thin and eat small onions
  • Days to harvest: 100 to 120 days. Frost-hardy.
  • Hint: Onions will not tolerate weeds and require consistent moisture.
Spinach

Spinach

  • Plant seeds 1/2″ deep directly in garden up to six weeks before last frost.
  • Sow spinach every two weeks in spring and again in late summer for fall crops.
  • Spacing: sow 18 seeds per sq. ft.; thin to nine plants per sq. ft.
  • Days to harvest: 30 to 40 days from germination. Very frost-hardy.
  • Hint: Spinach bolts in hot weather, so harvest early. Keep soil cool and moist with mulch or shade netting.
Leaf

Leaf Lettuce

  • Sow seed indoors 1/4″ deep, eight weeks before last frost or directly in garden when soil can be worked.
  • Thin seedlings when four weeks old.
  • Spacing: 16 plants per sq. ft.
  • Plant more lettuce every two to four weeks for a good supply.
  • Days to harvest: 28 days for baby lettuce, 45 days to full size. Frost-hardy.
  • Hint: Harvest outer leaves anytime, or use scissors to harvest entire plant, leaving an inch of stem to encourage new growth.
Beets

Beets

  • Sow seeds 1/2″ deep directly in garden five to six weeks before last frost.
  • Spacing: Plant seeds 18 per sq. ft., thin to nine plants
  • Plant more in midsummer for a fall harvest
  • Days to harvest: 45 to 60. Frost-hardy.
  • Hint: The longer you wait to harvest, the bigger the beets. Tops and thinning are flavorful.
Carrots

Carrots

  • Sow seeds in garden 1/4″ deep three weeks before last spring frost.
  • Spacing: Plant 30 seeds per sq. ft.; thin to 16 plants per sq. ft.
  • Replant six to eight weeks before fall frost for late crop.
  • Days to harvest: 55 to 70 days from seed. Frost-hardy.
  • Hint: Before planting, loosen soil to 12″; remove stones and add compost.
Radishes

Radishes

  • Plant 1/2″ deep directly in garden four weeks before last frost or after soil reaches 45 degrees F.
  • Plant successive crops anywhere there is unused space in the garden.
  • Spacing: 16 plants per sq. ft.
  • Days to harvest: 21 to 28. Frost-hardy.
  • Hint: Harvest as soon as possible. Roots get woody when large.
Broccoli

Broccoli

  • Sow seeds 1/4″ deep indoors, six weeks before last spring frost.
  • Transplant into garden when seedlings have two sets of leaves.
  • Spacing: one plant per sq. ft.
  • Days to harvest: 50 to 70 days from transplant. Frost-hardy.
  • Plant a second broccoli crop eight weeks before first fall frost.
  • Hint: Row covers are an effective control for cabbage worms.
Corn

Corn

  • Sow seeds 1″ deep directly in garden.
  • Spacing: Plant four seeds per sq. ft.; thin to two plants per sq. ft.
  • Plant after frost, when soil reaches 60 degrees F.
  • Need to grow at least 12 to 18 plants of same variety to ensure good pollination.
  • Days to harvest: 65 to 75 from planting. Not frost-hardy.
  • Hints: Use garden fabric (row covers) early in spring to protect against frost and crows
Cucumbers

Cucumbers

  • Plant seeds indoors 1/2″ deep three weeks before last frost, or seed in garden after frost.
  • Transplant into garden after frost and when soil is 65 to 70 degrees F.
  • Spacing one per sq. ft. for bush type; two per sq. ft. for vining type.
  • Extend harvest with a second crop, planted two weeks later.
  • Days to harvest: 50 to 60 days after transplanting. Not frost-hardy.
  • Hint: Use row covers until flowering to keep off insects.
Summer

Summer Squash

  • Plant seeds 3/4″ deep indoors or outdoors three weeks after last frost, or when soil is 70 degrees F.
  • Transplant three weeks after last frost, or when soil is 70 degrees F.
  • When picked frequently, plants will produce continuously until frost.
  • Spacing: one plant per sq. ft. for bush varieties; two plants per sq. ft. for vining types growing on trellis.
  • Days to harvest: 30 to 40 days from transplant; 40 to 50 from seed. Not frost-hardy.
  • Hint: Start under garden fabric (row covers) to protect from insects.

You can print off each bed and the whole lay-out of your garden. I wish I had found these earlier before I figured all this stuff out myself but hopefully these sites will encourage and help others plan their garden. I will be using The Gardener’s Supply Company and SFG Planner in the future.

Today’s fitness workout is for shoulders and abs which I finished just before the basement began to flood. Lucky for me my next workout isn’t scheduled until Wednesday.  Everything is picked up off the floor and the plants are on a timer and have water so hopefully I have nothing to worry about. Yes, the sump pimp is working but the water is rising too fast for it to keep the basement completely dry.

I received an email last night telling me the rest of my plants are ready to be shipped so we went to town and picked up the supplies need for the new strawberry bed. I am hoping to get it prepared tomorrow and then work on the blackberry bed on Monday. I also picked up the boards for the grid. Bill was nice enough to cut them to size for me so all I have to do is glue and screw them together. I am only working on the first two beds and will do two more beds in two weeks or so.

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Today’s organization challenge is to create a telephone message center.  This one isn’t really needed since everyone has a personal cell phone.

My Shade Garden Plans

Yesterday I worked on the little garden in the shade. It consist of four raised beds (4 foot x 7 foot) with straw paths that measure two feet across. The complete garden is fenced in: however, as I was working one of my cats came inside to help. There was a hole in the fence that I had not seen – so  now I know how the rabbits got in to eat all my peas last year. (Thanks for showing me the hole, Sunshine!)

Shade garden

garden 001

I plan on four separate planting stages this year starting with early spring. I am off to a good start  (but later than usual) –  hopefully things will work out as planned.

I started the season by removing the winter cover of dry leaves. Once the leaves were gone I pulled any weeds that had emerged before adding a top-dressing of Miracle Grow garden soil. I used a small hand-held cultivator to break up the new soil before planting the seeds.

The garden gets more sun in the early spring because some of the trees have not leaved out yet. Later in the season the shade will be deeper.

After the seeds spout I will add grass clipping as mulch. We do not use any chemicals on our grass so it is very safe to recycle the clippings.

Early Spring plantings:

Bed A  is planted with two rows of Arugula directly in front of the garden gate (shown in purple on the drawing). The arugula seeds are planted one seed every 3 inches at 1/4 inch deep.  On the other side of the pin wheel I have planted two rows of spinach. I planted Bloomsdale, long-standing spinach seed every 2 inches and 1/2 inch deep. On the other side of the box I planted 3 rows of black seeded Simpson lettuce at a depth of 1/8 inch and spaced about 1 inch apart. Closer to the fence I planted 3 rows of early scarlet globe radishes.These are planted 1/2 inch deep and about 1 inch apart.  Plant new seeds every  two weeks for continuous harvest.

Arugula will be ready to harvest in 40 days. Outer leaves can be harvested as they mature.

Spinach  will be ready to harvest in 45 days. Plants may be used when they reach 3 inches in height.

Lettuce will be ready to harvest in 45 days. They can be used when plant reaches 4 to 6 inches tall.

Radishes will be ready for harvest in 23 days.

Bed B

The half bed in front of the gate was not planted today.  I will plant cabbage and broccoli plants later. The other side was planted  with 4 rows of dwarf blue curled vates Kale.  The seeds are planted every 3 inches and 1/4 inch deep.

Kale will be ready to harvest in 55 days.

Bed C

I planted sweet onion bulbs in the first box. They are planted 1 inch deep and 4 inches apart. These can be harvested as green onions or later after the top growth has fallen over as dry table onions.  I then planted one row of American flag leeks next to the box divider. The seeds are planted every 2 inches ans 1/2 inches deep. The other side of the box will be used later.

Leeks will be ready for harvest in 150 days.

Bed D

Both of the boxes are planted with dwarf little marvel peas with lettuce broadcasted in the second box. Two weeks from today I plan on broadcasting lettuce seeds in the first box. The peas are planted every 2 inches and 1 1/2 inch deep.

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Late spring Planting

Bed A –  arugula, spinach, lettuce and radishes will continue to grow with the addition of beet seeds.

Bed B –  Cabbage and  broccoli plants will be added to the now empty side as will as some nasturtium seeds.  Kale will continue on the other side.

Bed C –  Onions and leeks will continue to grow  on the one side and green beans, lettuce,and radishes will be planted in the now empty plot.

Bed D – Peas and lettuce will continue to grow and more lettuce will be broadcasted as needed.

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Midsummer

Bed A – Lettuce, radishes, cover crop as needed

Bed B – cabbage, broccoli and Kale will continue to grow.

Bed C – Onions, leeks, green beans, lettuce, radish

Bed D – bush beans

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Autumn

Bed A – lettuce, carrots, spinach, arugula and parsley

Bed B – Turnips, broccoli, and Kale

Bed C – Lettuce, spinach, radish

Bed D – beets, carrots and leeks

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Today’s challenge is to  declutter duplicate and old catalogs. I do not keep catalogs unless I plan on ordering out of them. Most are treated like junk mail and immediately recycled.  I guess I will clean out some more magazines.

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It is starting to look like my weekend will be busy so today I am going to jump ahead and do Friday’s chores. I have decided to put off painting the treadmill room for now and work on the sun garden. The room will wait but the seeds only have so long of a growing season.